Ishinca 5530m – Urus 5495m – Tocllaraju 6034m

Today we leave the city of Huaraz toward the north and down to the Callejón de Huaylas (also known as the Santa Valley) to the village of Paltay. We continue on an unpaved route to Pashpa, on to the small Lake Cochapampa 3600m. Here is where our local team of mule drivers waits for us. It is a 90 minute trip from Huaraz to Paltay. We then have a tranquil climb through the Ishinca Valley to our camp, near Refugio Ishinca. 4-5 hours.

A continuous climb on a good trail and then over the moraine to the glacier. The climb on the glacier is not steep, except for the last 50 meters to the summit. However, in some years, depending on the conditions at the glacier, there can be some steep sections or hard ice, Return via the same trail to Base Camp. 10-12 hours.

Ascents of the west face of Urus. A sloped route takes us to a ridge, crossing large rocks on the moraine until we reach the glacier. We climb over the snow and ice for an hour; then the last 50 minutes to the summit is easier over the moraine. A steep descent to camp. 7 hours.

Today we have the entire day free. If participants have any questions about use of technical climbing equipment, today is a good day to practice. Overnight again in Base Camp.

About mid-day, after lunch, we begin the ascent via a steep moraine to the edge of the glacier. From this point we can see Tocllaraju (6,032 m), very near. We’ll set up our high camp on the moraine. Hiking time: 4-5 hours.

 Walking Time: 4 hours

Summit Day! Summit day! After a very early breakfast, we proceed over the glacier to the northwest ridge of the peak. Because the glacier changes from year to year, the technical ice climbing is also different from year to year. We might find small walls of ice, up to 60 degree surfaces. The summit ridge is secured with fixed ropes. From the 6000+ meter peak, the view opens on the entire Cordillera Blanca. Descend to Base Camp. At noon we return to Moraine Camp and continue to Base Camp. Some 10-12 hours today.  

After breakfast we leave at 8 am for an easy return walk to Pashpa. Today burros will be carrying our camping and personal equipment. We’ll return via a hillside covered with queñuales trees (Polylepis spp.), native to the high Andes. Here our private transport will be waiting.