Artesonraju is a great peak to add-on to any number of itineraries in the Cordillera Blanca. With relatively quick access and options to climb from various valleys, this 6025 meter peak is perfect for those folks who have the stamina and will to really pack in the climbing!
The South East face of the mountain: it is one of the most beautiful snow and ice pyramids in the Cordillera Blanca. This Southeast Face Route is one of the classic Andean climbs; it demands good ice climbing technique, as it involves climbing at about 50-60 degrees for well over 900 vertical meters, with some pitches at 65 degrees. At the end of the dry season a bergschrund can make problematic the last section of the climb. The route is rated (D) and was climbed the first time on the 24 June 1969 by K. Schreckenbach, H. Saler and K. Sussmilch.
The North Ridge of the mountain has been made famous by Paramount Picture’s logo, displaying this aspect of the mountain each time a blockbuster movie comes out. It is reached from the Santa Cruz valley, one day’s walk from the Alpamayo basecamp and 2 day’s walk from the trailhead in Cashapampa. A moraine camp with stunning views of Taulliraju and Santa Cruz Grande is the stage for the climbing of this technical and less-traveled route. 60 – 65 degree snow and ice slopes, adventurous route finding, and some committing moves near the summit highlight this exceptional climb. A great follow-up to a yanapaccha/Alpamayo
Note: These itineraries are designed as an addition to another trip or can accept participants who have completed other climbs in the area during the season. Artesonraju is a technical summit requiring previous experience with climbing systems and vertical ascents & descents. All participants will be screened before approval onto the trips. There is no acclimatization period included in these itineraries section. You must be well acclimatized prior to the start date.
South east face
Leave Huaraz in the morning for the Paron Valley, a journey of about 3 hours. Begin hiking up the valley towards the mountain. Camp that night at base camp.
Walking time: 4 to 5 hours
Departure after breakfast to camp 1. Uphill in zig zag to the glacier, here is necessary to use gear of mountaineering. After 2 hours walking on glacier, we arrive at the high camp.
Walking time: 4 to 5 hours
Early departure at midnight. We first approach to the wall and ascend the snow wall of 50 – 60 degrees sometimes exceeding 65 degrees. Until arriving at the summit, we ascend 15 pitches of snow climbing and the last two or three pitches could be ice, depends on the year. And the view from the top is amazing. Later descends the same way back in rappel to the high camp.
Climbing time: 11 to 13 hours (round trip)
After breakfast we trek out to Paron Lake where our private car will wait for us. Then it takes us back to Huaraz.
Walking time. 4 hours.
At indicated time pick up in the hotel and transfer in bus to Cashapampa, it takes around 3 hours; Cashapampa village is the starting point, place where the Horseman and his pack animals wait for us. Then we start the trekking among typical Andean trees and we walk through Santa Cruz valley to get to Llamacorral campsite. Lunch on the way, night at camp. Meal includes (lunch, reception and dinner)
Walking Time: 4 to 5 hrs.
We continue hiking up the Santa Cruz valley 5-7 hours towards the first pass of the trek (Punta Union 4750 meters). Camp before the pass near the popular Alpamayo base camp. Before the camp the group walks toward Alpamayo base camp where there is a wonderful view of Alpamayo (the most beautiful mountain in the world) and the famous paramount peak (mt. Artesonraju).
Walking Time 4 to 5 hrs.
From here we again use the help of our high altitude porters as we move to Artesonraju Moraine Camp. Trekkers need to help carry their personal expedition equipment because the hilly nature of the moraine makes the climb more demanding. We rise through the shrubs and trees for 4-5 hours along the moraine crest, which is sometimes slippery and steep. Artesonraju Moraine Camp.
Walking time: 4 to 5 hours
Summit day! The route we are climbing today is the North Ridge via the northeast spur. We climb steep slopes to the left of the ridge, avoiding the crevasses and seracs. The slope of the wall is from 40-60 degrees; the conditions can vary a lot from one year to the next. The ascent is approximately 8-9 hours. At the summit you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring peaks of Huascaran North and South, Huandoys, Santa Cruz, Caraz, and many more. After a brief rest and picture-taking at the summit, we return to Moraine Camp with some sections done via rappel. The descent will take about 3-4 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay another night at Moraine Camp. If everyone feels fine, we usually drop down to Artesonraju Base Camp.
Climbing time. 10 hours
This day we will go back walking down hill along the Santa Cruz valley, until Cashapampa, where our private transfer wait for us to drive to Huaraz.
Walking time: 6 to 7 hour
Driving time: 2 hours
INCLUDED IN THE PRICE:
- Pre climbing Briefing.
- Professional mountain guide certified by IFMGA: English, Spanish and Quechua speaking.
- Aspiring mountain guide IFMGA. English, Spanish and Quechua speaking, for more than two clients
- Mountain porters
- A Private transport of approaching and returning from all the expedition.
- Entrance fee to the Huascaran national park
- Food during the expedition (breakfast , lunch , box lunch, reception and dinner ) we have option for vegetarian people
- Camping equipment: mountaineering four season tents (2 persons)
- Mess tent
- Kitchen stuff: stove, kitchen utensils, chairs, table and others
- Donkey drivers and donkeys
- First aid kit
- A mountain cook.
- Snow pickets
- International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
- Personal equipment
- Food in the city
- Hotel in Lima
- Taxis in cities
- Hotel and lodging in Huaraz
- Travel, life or baggage insurance
- Unexpected expenses as when a participant leaves the group during the scheduled days
- Additional beverages or meals in villages
- Daypack for your walking and climbing to bring personal gear, camera, and light stuff (45 litters)
- Rain gear (water and windproof jacket and pants)
- Hiking boots
- Climbing boots recommendable for six thousand meters
- Warm clothes (jacket, fleeces, gloves, thermal clothing underneath, and down jacket)
- Sleeping bag resistant up to -15 grades
- Torch / flashlight (2 extra batteries)
- Definitely camera
- Cap or hat to protect yourself from sun heat, cold or rain
- Water battle or thermo (1 litter or more)
- Small Personal first aid kit with medicines that often use
- Per of walking poles necessary for the hike
- Two technical ice axes
- A couple of carabineers
- A belay device.
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