Alpamayo 5947m & Yanapaccha 5460m
08 Days / 07 nights
It is the gem of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Ever since it was first climbed in 1951, alpinists have been flocking to attempt its fluted Southwest Face. Many fledgling high altitude climbers consider this peak a culmination of their early climbing careers. It has often been named by climbers, magazines, and trekkers, “the most beautiful mountain in the world”. Alpamayo deserves these accolades. Summit day consists of 1,500 feet (450 meters) of perfect two-tooled ice and neve (styrofoam-like snow) climbing on a flawless fluted face. You know you are close to reaching the top when you begin to see light through the face from the other side. And on a good year, you can actually top out on the summit ridge, with one foot dangling down each of its almost vertical faces. Getting to this point requires hard work and solid mountaineering and ice climbing skills. Before reaching the famed summit face we must approach over 25 kilometers (15+ miles), place two lower camps, and carry heavy packs filled with climbing equipment and food over 4,000 feet (1,219 meters) of moraine, scree, and steep glaciated terrain.
Trip Information of Alpamayo
Grade: D/ difficult snow and ice climbing
Length: 6/7 Days
Route: SW – French Direct
Season: June – August
Trip Information of Yanapaccha
Grade: AD- / some steep climbing
Length: 2 Days
Route: W face
Season: May – September
Itinerary
This day we take a private car and drive to kilometer 42, it takes 3 hours driving passing through the two beautiful lakes of Llanganuco valley after getting off the car, we start to walk to the moraine camp. On the all the way up we can appreciate beautiful mountains of the cordillera Blanca.
Walking time: 2 to 3 hours
We will start to climb early in the morning, crossing the rocky path for about 30 minutes. After that we will climb up the slope with in the last part we will find 3 pitches of snow climbing up to the summit 55 degrees, where we will enjoy the nice Mountain View. after that we will start descend to the Moraine Camp, lunch at the Camp, in the afternoon we trek out to 42 kilometer where our private car wait for us to take us to Huaraz.
Climbing Time: 8 to 9 hours (round trip)
We will pick you up in our private transport and leave Huaraz to be transferred to Cashapampa after 2 hours by car; here we will meet our donkey drivers, then we will start hiking by narrow valley, we will trek going to the first camp Place Llamacorral where we set up our first camp.
Walking time: 4 to 5 hours.
We start trekking, after our breakfast, passing the blue-green color lake called Jatun Cocha, in 4 hours we have the Base Camp Arhuaycocha where we will start to prepare our climbing equipment for the next day.
Walking time: 4 to 5 hours
After breakfast, We will climb the moraine rocky trail to get the glacier, We will walk the rocky area for about 3 hours and getting over 5000m, then we will start using our climbing gear, and start climbing for about 3 hours to get the col at 5350m to finally go down a little for a half hour to the high camp 5300m
Walking and climbing time: 6 to 7 hours
After an early breakfast, we will start climbing using headlamps, and after 1-hour approx. walking in the snow, we will get the base of the wall, known as the French route. The inclination goes from approx. 45º to 80º, then we will start climbing the wall, and after 2 or 3 hours climbing, we will succeed the summit, where we will have impressionist white Mountain peaks. We go down to high Camp for overnight.
Climbing time: 7 to 8 hours (round trip)
After breakfast in the glacier, we will take the same route to go back to the Base Camp
Walking time: 4 to 5 hours
This day we will go back walking down hill along the Santa Cruz valley, until Cashapampa, where our private transfer wait for us to drive to Huaraz. Meal includes (breakfast, lunch,).
Walking time: 6 to 7 hour
Driving time: 2 hours
Services
INCLUDED IN THE PRICE:
- Pre climbing Briefing.
- A professional mountain guide certified by IFMGA: English, Spanish and Quechua speaking.
- An aspiring mountain guide IFMGA. English, Spanish and Quechua speaking, for more than two clients
- Mountain porters
- A Private transport of approaching and returning from all the expedition.
- Entrance fee to the Huascaran national park
- Food during the expedition (breakfast , lunch or box lunch, reception and dinner ) we have option for vegetarian people
- Camping equipment: mountaineering four season tents (2 persons)
- A Mess tent
- Kitchen stuff: stove, kitchen utensils, chairs, table and others
- Donkey drivers and donkeys
- First aid kit
- A mountain cook.
- Rope
- Snow pickets
NOT INCLUDED:
- International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
- Personal equipment
- Food in the city
- Hotel in Lima
- Taxis in cities
- Hotel and lodging in Huaraz
- Travel, life or baggage insurance
- Unexpected expenses as when a participant leaves the group during the scheduled days
- Additional beverages or meals in villages
- Tips
Equipment Required
- A daypack for your walking and climbing to bring water, camera, and light stuff (30 litters)
- Rain gear (water and windproof jacket and pants)
- Hiking boots
- Climbing boots recommendable for six thousand meters
- Warm clothes (jacket, fleeces, gloves, thermal clothing underneath, and down jacket)
- Sleeping bag resistant up to -15 grades
- Torch / flashlight (2 extra batteries)
- Definitely camera
- Cap or hat to protect yourself from sun heat, cold or rain
- Sunscreen
- Lipstick
- Water battle or thermo (1 litter or more)
- Small Personal first aid kit with medicines that often use
- Per of walking poles necessary for the hike
- Two technical ice axes
- One harness
- A couple of carabineers
- Crampons
- A helmet
- Gaiters
- Sunglasses
- A belay device.
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